A day in Pai

In the mornings, fog carpets the valley. The van creeps up the mountain and you are rewarded with a view that is hard to improve on. Though a hot cup of coffee helps.

Morning

The van leaves Chiang Mai after breakfast with the bags in the back and nobody navigating. Route 1095 climbs into the hills within an hour. Sam gets carsick, so Sam rides up front with the window, takes the tablet before the curves start rather than after, and the driver knows to stop the moment anyone asks. Nobody has to be brave about it.

The stop is Doi Kiew Lom, a viewpoint on the Huai Nam Dang side of the road, where the fog sits in the valley on cool-season mornings. This is Theo's stop. Coffee for Priya from the stall, photos for Theo, and standing still for everyone else.

We rode this road on motorbikes ourselves, and that is exactly why the group is in a van. The curves are the fun part when someone else is driving them.

Afternoon

Lunch in Pai, then the hot springs. Pai has the backpacker energy people talk about, and the trick is to take the nature and leave the hostel streets. We skip the waterfall circuit and the packed tour of every viewpoint. One soak, one platform, one sunset is a Pai day. Five stops is a Pai day nobody remembers. A slow soak, then back to the huts for a nap or the pool.

There are great spots for a spontaneous warrior pose for Dana. The viewpoint platform above town in the late afternoon light is one, with the hills going blue behind her. Anyone who wants to join can. Anyone who wants to watch from the steps with a drink can do that too.

Then Pai Canyon for sunset. A short walk along narrow ridges for Theo and Jack, and a bench with the same view for Priya, whose knee does not need to prove anything. Sunset from here is the reason to time it this way.

Evening

The night market in town, food first. It is a bit more touristy than the ones further up the loop, and still worth it. Lena has live music and a casual night out five minutes away, and Dana usually goes with her. Jack and Priya walk back across the river to the quiet side. Sam is asleep by nine and nobody blames him after the road.

Where you sleep

Piya Guest House. Individual private huts about a five-minute walk from the main part of town, on the far side of the small river, which is why it is calm. Priya's hut is the one closest to the bridge, so the walk is shortest for her. Two nights. Easy access to the fun without sleeping inside the noise.